GearHeads Forum

Hi Moose,

Good to see you back and I am pleased that the robo-opp. all went OK.

Thanks for the tip on Marigold, I will certainly give it a try.

Tweakie.

Impressive, as always, Tweakie!

Slightly OT, but I've done some playing around with Marigold, they've done some updating and split off 3D reliefs into a separate project since I last tried it, links on the page.

My CNC time has been down for a few years and mostly limited to chip v-carving. I'm hoping that my encounter of the robotic kind last Halloween is going to improve that. We raised 3 girls and bought those elastic hair ties by the case, Dr. Roboto installed what looks like one (an annuloplasty) around my mitral valve. I wanted to watch but they wouldn't let me, but I just found out that they took the pictures they promised and buried them deep in the Mayo patient portal. Interestingly the robot surgeon was in the hallway outside the OR and I only saw the business end and the second surgeon except in pre-op.

Wow, that is very 3d. Well done.

I have an advantage when I do 3d, as Auggie will do it in several layers, raising the Z on each layer.
This keeps the focal spot on plane which is why mine are a bit more defined. It basically see's each
grey color as a layer to be shot. ( OR if one says 10 layers, each 25 grey levels becomes one layer of
exposure. Auggie , on each layer, will shoot at 100% on grey scales lower then the current layer, and 0%
on grey scales above the current layer. This accumulation of depth is a great help in 3d and makes the
laser power less important as depth is an accumulation, rather than a single density shot. I dont know
is whatever your using can do that, I've only seen Auggie do it, but if you can divide your image into say
10 images , each with only that one layers grey ( and previous layers grey output set to zero, with future
layers set to 100% and the table Z rising on each layer , you'll find the 3d punches out better. A 40 watt
can then simulate a hundred watt ( or higher ) more easily.. for engraving 3d anyway..

Nice work though, looks like good depth..

I have spent the last 15 or so years working with CO2 lasers and recently decided to try, as they have improved considerably in recent times, a cheap, Chinese, UV, diode laser. Although the laser is only 5 Watts in true output power it incorporates 4 diodes with an optical system that parallels the 4 rectangular beams into a square pattern which can then be focussed to a spot size of less than 0.08mm. (square with slightly rounded corners). This produces a power density not that far short of a 40 Watt, CO2 laser although the difference in wavelength has a differing effect on some materials.

I have never had the same degree of success as Art when it comes to actual 3D laser engraving but was surprised by how the illusion of 3D can be created.

I lasered this image yesterday on a piece of scrap MDF and when cropped (to emphasize the border / frame) although the work is completely flat the illusion of 3D can, in my opinion, be clearly demonstrated.

OK, this work is not perfect as I altered the laser output power a few times during the scanning process but with a bit of practice, hopefully, I can improve.

Perhaps other laser users may wish to share their experience of grayscale laser engraving ?

Tweakie.

Excellent work.

That pie crust looks almost too good to eat  ;D

Tweakie.

Hi:

  Heres an example celtic fill of a circle I used for making a pinbox this week
as a test of the 3d functions. GreyScale and Celtic output from Vexx, 3d carved in
hardwood by Auggie. Celtic fill should be released in a week or two if anyone
wants to play with such things.

Art