GearHeads Forum

Gary:

Thx, I think maybe I know whats up with that.. Ill check it out tomorrow and fix it up, I suspect my messaging fix for sliders has made the button react twice..

  I like the script being held as well, Ill find out what changed..

Art

Gary :

New version is online. The reason the scripts window wasn't opening is because a recent fixed has caused
it to notice when two or more buttons have the same ID number (11). You need to change the ID of the Aug button,
I made mine 2222 and the Lib button, I made mine 4543 or something. This works because both of those use
their variable names as triggers for action. The Script tab selection uses its name ID as its script selector and
must remain 11.

This appears to fix it up. New version is online.

Art

Art

Thanks that fixes the script problem.. but still getting two copies of a dialog loaded with my button press, it works but I have to close the second dialog manually..

What changes were made to auggie I don't see any difference, I went  and changed the ID's then it worked fine..

Gary

Hi Gary:

  The messaging and script calling is pretty complex. I found it was missing slider messages and repairing that
made it sense the duplicated ID numbers which previously went undetected. Inside Auggie I changed a bit of code
related to calling buttons , I was hoping that would fix the double dialog as it made sense.
  I may have screwed up and not included the fix in by build. Ill double check..


Art

Gary:

Redownload. There is a bug in the jog buttons in the most recent versions.

New version is now online as version K.

Art

Art

That seemed to fix it...

I wish I didn't come up with the bright idea to swap the probing direction's with button's and  led's
seems like I had to make a lot of changes to the probing code, but did get it to work with inside bore probing, round and Square/Ret..
Now on to the rest of the scripts..

I see what a pain it could be for you to hunt bug's down..

I did finally dig into visual studio C++ a little and wrote my first program to calculate the X and Y values for the 3 corners of a delta printer based on the print radius.
I got lazy every time I had to recalibrate the printer I had to try and figure out the math again... not any more..

Thanks for you help, hopefully I won't run into anymore glitches..

Gary 

>>I did finally dig into visual studio C++ a little and wrote my

  lol, you want to take care, while free, Visual Studio can swallow you whole.
If one were to ask me the best program ever written, it would be Visual Studio..
warts and all.

Art

Art

Yes I found the code hard to follow, but got it going after some hours of messing around, it's not fancy but works for me, maybe I will zip it up and post it your 3d printer section.. never had anyone test it out yet or not sure if needed..

I was finding with my delta printer when I was doing the auto bed leveling I wasn't getting good prints, so went back to manual and things were a lot better..
but I guess most people are using the auto leveling..

Gary

Gary:

Depends on the printer really. I haven't tuned mine or leveled in years..thing just works, typically.
Many futz with various settings over time, 3dprinting is more hobby than device.

Art

I've never auto leveled my 3D printers, two of them (Plywood Printrbot Plus and new Ender 3 Pro) don't have auto leveling, and my Thingybot Delta has a probe but it requires swapping out the hot end module for it.  Level all of them with screw or dial twiddling...

Only the Plus had issues, and that was after replacing the allthread with TR8-8, so little friction the carriage would drift down while setting and tilt, once I learned that a quick setup with a sheet of paper before powering it up eliminated the problem.  Otherwise it only needed leveling (we all know it's not really leveling...) on rare occasions.    I leveled it with a digital dial gauge to within 0.01mm on a double strength window glass bed.

The E3P is too soon to tell (only had it a few days), it got the stiffer spring mod.  It's included aluminum pcb sandwich MK3 bed isn't that great, and the highly touted magnetic (polymer on car sign magnet) print surface is mostly a bust, will be swapping that out for a pair of glass pallets soon.  Still usable but it has to cool off to remove prints or the flexy bed warps them

Kirk