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after two days of playing around I have finally got auggie going with my 3w 445 nm  laser module
so far I have discovered :-
1. when you create an auggie profile  if you choose "use pokeys data " you are in for a  world of hurt '
changes made to pwm pins etc just never work
2.  if you use the  usb connection  network delay must be 0  or motion  is erratic/jerky
3. when in doubt  restore pokeys to factory and delete auggie profile and start again
4. write down the settings that work
5. its  definitely  worth the effort  and a splendid thing

Richard:

  Thanks for the notes. Comments below..

1. when you create an auggie profile  if you choose "use pokeys data " you are in for a  world of hurt '
changes made to pwm pins etc just never work

  True. This option really is for a person who WAS working, but lost it all for some reason. It will import almost all the
current settings int he Pokeys, it still does require resetting some things though, softlimits being one of them typically.

2.  if you use the  usb connectio n  network delay must be 0  or motion  is erratic/jerky

  Good point, Im of the opinion network delay should be 0 for all, I will now change it to 0 as an installation default.

3. when in doubt  restore pokeys to factory and delete auggie profile and start again

  I too do this, not the pokeys fault, more mine. Should there ever be too much traffic in Auggie I
will fix this up and make the configs easier. I havent pushed Auggie too much, and its lightly used,
so as most are pretty expert at setting up controllers, and I'm always willing to help, I haven't set much
of my coding time to cleaning up config issues.

4. write down the settings that work

  Always, and always keep a copy of the profile somewhere. (Just in case..). I only added
an "Are you sure? " to the delete profile this week because one was accidentally deleted. 

5. its  definitely  worth the effort  and a splendid thing

    Thanks, I personally love it when I run Auggie, I find it much more enjoyable
than Mach3 ever was, but then I use it only for laser. Its capabilities tend to mirror
the needs of myself and the testers that try various flavors. I already have more fixes for
tool change  and such for next release, only because someone is testing the past
couple weeks.
  Motion can be tough to tune, and Auggie surprises quite often as the settings can be done
so many ways. A simple Jerk increase this week tripled my speed when cutting a vine,
and even I wouldn't have thought so. Just shows there's lots to learn about it. 
Here's hoping you have fun and find it a cool toy.

Art

I have another query re  max cv radius 

the runtime value and the engine/planer value are not the same .  if I set the engine/planer  value then on the next restart of auggie the runtime value is set to the new value
but the engine/planer  value  reverts to 1,  yet the new runtime value persists  . seems to be not quite right to me.

so far auggie runs my 3040 mill  at 2400mm/min  with the laser on /spindle removed  cv=12 jerk=50000  and its smooth as silk , the 3w laser will engrave a pic onto wood
at that speed . that just about pulls the laser up  power wise 

still experimenting

Richard:

Thanks, that was a bug. It has been fixed for next release. ( It was changing it to a boolean ..typo..)

Nice to hear its moving smooth. , let me know your experiences..

Art

first attempts at laser cut  etching masks with auggie
method
blank pcb cleaned up with  steel wool and brasso metal polish
wash with metho and dry
spray with  dark green pressure pack touchup paint , dry in sun 20min (impatient)
cut with auggie , wash again with metho
etch fecl3

first results , pretty good.  drill holes did not cut with laser seems g01 moves on Z don't seem to fire laser at anywhere near full power. I was hoping to use the code directly from coppercam to mark the drills

Hi Richard:

  Thats looking pretty good. A hint on the Z moves, the power you get is equal to (Actual Feedrate / Requested Feedrate) * 100%, so
if you make your Z move with a feedrate.. Like G1Z.1 F0.5 , youll get a slow Z change at full power laser. Trick I think would be to
select a feed distance and a feed speed that makes the shot long enough for the drill hole. even a

G1Z-.1F.5
G1Z0F.5  would take about 6 seconds and burn full power for that 6 seconds, or so Id think. But if you turn off distance correction you can
have full requested power all the time. Does your laser panel have a button labeled Distance Correction on it? Im not sure if the
distribution has that button, if not Ill upgrade the laser panel to my own version of it. It has overrides for dist/cor and such on it.
    One of Auggies best features for laser ifs that it shoots only while moving, and only in a g1 move. But I know there are times
like when you wish to drill a hole where you need more power, the above may be a solution. If not, we'll find one..

 
All in all it looks like your on your way.

Art

thanks, I will try some more z moves tomorrow .

Does your laser panel have a button labeled Distance Correctio n on it ?

 
not that I can see , sounds like it could be handy though

Thx, Ill update the panels so you have my laser controls, they give a bit more power.

Art

Hi Richard:

The next update will have my laser panel that allows distance mode to be turned off. This can be very handy in things such as PCB.s

In the meantime, here it is, just unzip to the Panels folder..



Art

thanks for the new panel , but it dosen't  solve the problem

treid the  Z drills  as suggested with distance compensation on/off  and the laser will not reach past barely above tickle power
(laser current 10mA  where idle is 2mA  and full power 1600mA) the power level reached always  is  10mA  regardless of speed
for each g1 Z move the laser does increase and then go back to tickle when completed  but goes from 1 % to 2% (guess) only
coppercam does have a circular boring mode  but auggie does not like the arcs it generates (mach3 is ok)